Waldorf Deviled Beef Ribs With Mustard Sauce
FOOD
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June 6, 1982
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Dishing Out A Good Ribbing
There are certain sayings regarding food that we have simply accepted as part of folklore, rarely wondering about the source. One of the most obvious of these is ''the nearer the bone the sweeter the flesh.''
Recently, we were preparing one of our favorite foods (and a great favorite of many others), deviled beef bones. These were so well received our guests that we decided to pursue other recipes with short ribs of beef as a base. This led me to the library, where I discovered in a well-known book of quotations that the expression (I had always presumed it was ''the nearer the bone the sweeter the meat'') dates from the year 1614 and first appeared in a work titled ''City Gallant'' by an author aptly named Cook, first name and other works unknown to me.
That observation about bones and flesh is, of course, as basic as the sweetness of honey in a beehive, but it is surely nowhere more apparent than with short ribs. The ribs - known in French as plat de cotes - are as succulent and toothsome as anything the butcher provides. They adapt well to long cooking with herbs and spices and vegetables. In addition to the deviled beef bones, we offer recipes for braised short ribs with caraway sauce and boiled beef ribs with horseradish sauce. All of these dishes are ideal for late spring or early summer menus.
Plat de cotes de boeuf a la diable (Deviled short ribs of beef) 4 pounds short ribs of beef, the meatier the better, cut into threeor four-inch lengths 1 cup flour 1 teaspoon paprika Salt to taste, if desired 1 teaspoon freshly ground pepper 2 tablespoons corn, peanut or vegetable oil 3 tablespoons imported mustard, the stronger the better 1 tablespoon dry white wine 1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce 1 1/2 cups fine fresh bread crumbs.
1. Preheat oven to 375 degrees. 2. Put the ribs of beef in a mixing bowl. 3. Blend the flour, paprika, salt to taste and pepper and spoon it over the ribs. Toss the ribs to coat well. 4. Select a baking dish large enough to hold the ribs in one layer without crowding. Add the oil. Add the ribs of beef and rub them all over with oil. Arrange the pieces neatly in the pan without letting them touch. Place in the oven and bake about one hour, turning the pan in the oven occasionally so that the ribs cook evenly. Turn the pieces.
5. Reduce the oven heat to 350 degrees. Continue baking the ribs 20 to 30 minutes. 6. Pour off the fat from the baking pan. 7. Blend the mustard, wine and Worcestershire sauce in a mixing bowl. Use the mixture to brush the meaty part of the ribs all over. As they are brushed, use the fingers to sprinkle them liberally with the bread crumbs. Do not dip them in the crumbs or the crumbs in the bowl will become soggy.
8. As the ribs are crumbed, arrange them on a rack placed in a baking pan. Put the pan in the oven and continue baking 30 minutes. Yield: Four to six servings. Plat de cotes de boeuf au carvi (Braised short ribs of beef with caraway) 4 pounds short ribs of beef, the meatier the better, cut into threeor four-inch lengths 1/4 cup flour Salt to taste, if desired Freshly ground pepper to taste 2 tablespoons corn, peanut or vegetable oil 1 cup finely chopped onions 1 cup finely chopped carrots 1/2 cup finely chopped celery 2 cloves garlic, peeled and left whole 2 tablespoons crushed caraway seeds 1 bay leaf 3 sprigs fresh thyme or 1/2 teaspoon dried 1/2 cup dry white wine 1 1/2 cups imported canned tomatoes 3 tablespoons tomato paste 2 cups chicken broth 6 sprigs fresh parsley.
1. Sprinkle the ribs with the flour and salt and pepper to taste. 2. Heat the oil in a casserole or Dutch oven large enough to hold the ribs without crowding. When it is hot, add the ribs and cook, turning occasionally so that they brown quite well and evenly on all sides, about 10 minutes.
3. Add the onions, carrots, celery, garlic, caraway seeds, bay leaf and thyme. Cook about three minutes. Pour off all fat. Add the wine and cook, stirring the ribs around, briefly. Add the tomatoes, tomato paste, broth, parsley, salt and pepper to taste. Cover closely and bring to the boil. Cook about one hour and 45 minutes to two hours or until the rib meat is extremely tender.
4. Transfer the ribs to a platter. Pour the sauce into a bowl. Skim off and discard as much surface fat as possible. 5. Return the ribs to the casserole and pour the sauce over them. Bring to the boil and serve. Yield: Six to eight servings. Plat de cotes de boeuf aux legumes (Short ribs of beef with vegetables) 5 pounds short ribs of beef, the meatier the better, cut into threeor four-inch lengths 4 quarts water Salt to taste, if desired 2 onions, peeled and stuck with 2 cloves each 4 sprigs fresh thyme or 1/2 teaspoon dried 1 bay leaf 12 peppercorns, crushed 6 sprigs parsley 1 cup coarsely chopped celery 1 three-pound head of cabbage 2 large leeks, about 1/2 pound 4 carrots, about 3/4 pound 4 to 6 white turnips, about
3/4 pound Horseradish sauce (see recipe) or freshly grated horseradish. 1. Put the short ribs in a kettle and add cold water to cover. Bring to the boil and stir. Let boil about 30 seconds. Drain well. Run cold water over the rib pieces until chilled.
2. Put the ribs back in a clean kettle and add the four quarts of water and salt to taste. Add the onions, thyme, bay leaf, peppercorns, parsley sprigs and celery. Bring to the boil and let cook one and one-half hours.
3. Meanwhile, trim the cabbage to remove any blemished leaves and the bottom core. Cut the cabbage into eight wedges of equal size. Neatly trim the core portion.
4. Trim off the bottom of the leeks. Split them lengthwise halfway down on two sides. Rinse well between the leaves. Tie the leeks into a bundle with string.
5. Trim and scrape the carrots and cut into one-inch lengths. Set aside. 6. Trim and peel the turnips. Cut into one-inch cubes and set aside. 7. When the ribs have cooked one and one-half hours, add the cabbage wedges and the bundle of leeks. Continue cooking 20 minutes. 8. Add the carrots and turnips and continue cooking about 30 minutes. Serve with horseradish sauce (see recipe) or with freshly grated horseradish on the side.
Yield: Six to eight servings. Sauce au raifort (Horseradish sauce) 2 tablespoons butter 2 tablespoons flour 1 cup clear beef broth from boiled short ribs 1/4 cup heavy cream Salt to taste, if desired Freshly ground pepper to taste 1/2 cup grated fresh horseradish (or add bottled horseradish to taste).
1. Melt the butter in a saucepan and add the flour, stirring with a wire whisk. 2. Add the broth, stirring rapidly with the whisk. When thickened and smooth, add the cream. Add salt and pepper to taste and the horseradish. Yield: About one and one-half cups.
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